Morocco Day 3: On the Way to Marrakech
Our delicious breakfast at the hotel included eggy Moroccan pancakes, which fortified us for our walk through Dades Gorge. A local guide helped us cross a small stream with just planks for a bridge, then through a rock-strewn path that led past huge boulders. Soon the distant canyon walls began to narrow, coming so close together at some points that they almost resembled Petra (in Jordan). Swirls of color veined through the canyon walls. Through the gaps were illuminated views of the other side, dramatically framed by rocks from centuries of erosion.
Some of the rocks were so smooth that we slipped and slid as we clambered. Wyatt had the most difficult time going up and down – at one point, she required the help of 3 people. Two were pulling her up while one was heaving from below.
We re-embarked on our cross-country drive at 10 in the morning. The first significant town we passed was El Kelaa M’Gouna, renowned for its annual three day rose festival held each May. A pink rose or two were still to be spied – a far cry from the vast fields of rose. We did stop to purchase some rosewater essence.
Skoura followed -- a village of Kasbahs and date palms. We stopped at Ouarzazate, the Hollywood of Morocco where many international films are made. There is a huge film school here, as well as the famous Atlas studios, and many palm-fringed boulevards. We ate at Troi Thés, where Bei treated us to lamb with Atlas herbs and lamb Marchande cooked with fried egg. We were also visited by the head of Cherg Expeditions.
The Tichka Pass winds its way southwest through the desert. We were talking animatedly when all of a sudden we were swerving wildly though curving and twisting mountain roads. Lush green valleys passed in and out of our sight on either side, alternating with grand mountain views. We were being driven so fast I got carsick and had to stop a few times for some deep breaths of fresh mountain air. I slept most of the way to Marrakech.
Marrakech was dusty and dirty. People going home from work clogged up the streets like cholesterol plaques, and the medina walls were undistinguished. Our driver, long a native of Morocco, had to ask a local boy to take us to our riad, since it was hard even for him to navigate the twisting derbs or alleyways.
A riad is a Moroccan mansion converted to a private guest retreat. Our riad was named Riad 5 Sens in Derb El Baroud Quartier Hart es Soura, one of the best riads in Morocco according to the guidebooks. We were met by our majordomo, Abdullah, who opened the doors to an amazing courtyard with contemporary Moroccan interior design.
A serenity pool was conveniently located beside our private hammam, or spa, and we sat on our plush sofa in the tree-lined courtyard to sip our welcoming mint tea. A cozy sitting area lay off the right side of the entryway, while to the left was our private dining room complete with stone fireplace.
Our room was named Mille et Une nuits or 1001 nights, and was featured in the guidebooks touting our riad. There was a huge bed and sofabed, and a luxurious spa-like bathroom with tadelakt bathtub and sink. Tadelakt is a traditional shiny wall-effect made by smoothing plaster with egg white. Our heavy double wooden doors needed to be latched the old-fashioned way.
We were met by huge squeals as Monique was already at the riad and talking non-stop even while she was up on the second floor. We all sat on the terrace catching up while the evening breeze ushered in the night.
Dinner was by candlelight, and candles were everywhere, lighting up the pool and courtyard like a thousand and one lights. We are up our appetizers of sweetened carrots and red beets, eggplant taboulleh and pickles, followed by a flavorful beef tagine with fates and walnuts and our favorite poulet citron tagine.
Dessert included fresh peaches, kiwi fruit, honeydew melon and deep rep cherries smothered in heavy syrup. After such a great and hearty meal, we sat around talking and laughing while Ben Harper on the CD system serenaded us in the background.
For my take on the riad, click here.
For more pictures of the riad, click here.
posted by moan @ 2:46 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home