The Yellow Brick Road: April 2005

Saturday, April 30, 2005

Tuscany Day 5

I am convinced that the best way to see Florence is on a Vespa - even if it wreaks havoc on my contacts and turns my hair into popsicles.

Last night as I stepped out of the Internet cafe, I met a group of college kids who invited me to hang out with them at Piazzale Michelangelo. I don't remember all their names (they all end in vowels) except for my driver, Arthan, who thankfully, had the sense to have an extra jacket and helmet in his scooter.

I couldn't help squealing as they zipped through the streets of Florence, racing up the hill to the piazza. It was almost surreal as my pseudo-guide pointed out all the major spots as we whipped past - the Ponte Vecchio, Duomo, Uffizi, the many different piazzas - all lit by a clear starry sky.

I was afraid my nose would chip off from the cold, but that was completely forgotten as the view of Florence all the way to Fiesole and the glittery waters of the Arno greeted me as we reached the top. No wonder there were only couples there, kissing, cuddling and what not. It was a scene right out of a postcard.

They dropped me off at the Ponte Vecchio to indulge my gelato craving - of course I had to have the Ferrero flavor. I had 2 other scoops of something I couldn't pronounce and on my way back to the hotel, I met Simon (See-mon-eh), who is a music reviewer for the local paper. He insisted on treating me to 2 more scoops of gelato to keep him company - the gelato was his dinner (he had just come from the dentist :).

So naturally, after 5 scoops of the richest, thickest ice cream ever invented, I, who rarely get pimples, woke up with 2!! What the hell kind of stuff do they put in those things...

When I got back, I discovered I had been upgraded to a 70€ room which means I get a bigger bed and a killer view of the Arno. Man, a smile can be pure currency in these parts.

Have I already said that I love Florence?

* * * * *

Today was maybe the most relaxed of my trip so far. It was nice to wake up to the chiming bells in the distance that signal the start of the day. I had a nice 85-minute ride to Siena - the Tuscan countryside appearing in the window 20 minutes into the trip.

I had no idea God had so many different shades of green in his palette until today. It really was Nature at her best, each hill sloping gracefully and rolling into the next, each field a vibrant verdant green, each tree rising proudly to complete the scene I thought moviemakers only embellished (they don't need to).

The cities of Siena and San Gimignano in the Tuscan / Chianti region are real throw-backs to the medieval era. Everything in these 2 cities have remained almost as it was - red brick and stone buildings, cobble-stone streets, 12 o'clock ringing bells to signal the hour of the Angelus and huge piazzas in the center beside the Duomo; or should I say, the Duomo (or church) is still the center of life.

Of course I did the tourist thing - visiting museums filled with paintings from the Sienese school, genuflecting in magnificent churches built almost a 1000 years ago and climbing 500+ steps each of the Torre Mangia and Torre Grasso for unparalleled views of Tuscany. I must have taken dozens of pictures (which I will post here in future) to make up for the bloody head rush and creaking legs I had to suffer through.

I've climbed the temples of Angkor Wat and part of the Great Wall of China, but I swear, the Torre Mangia shaved a couple of years off my life with that climb.

But the absolute best part and real magic of the day was wandering away from the tourist trail and exploring these 2 places up and down hilly roads winding in every direction. I think I spent hours getting lost with almost every spot being a great vantage point for the majestic views. I am probably developing the calves I feared fencing would give me - but for 1 day, it was worth it.

I rewarded myself for all that exercise by splurging on a good meal. Here in Italy, it's customary to order 2 main dishes, even on top of the antipasti. So tonight I had seafood pasta and codfish cooked the traditional Fiorentine way. Between this and the 3 scoops of gelato I had again this afternoon, I'll be fat and completely out of shape by the time I get back home.

Friday, April 29, 2005

Florence Day 4

Just arrived in Florence. Getting here from Paris was an arduous journey - note to self: always always always check where the frigging airport of a budget airline is. In my case, it was an hour away from Paris by train AND another hour away by cab (I missed the bus). Of course, the taxi driver wanter me to pay additional on top of the meter which I pretended I didn't understand. And then, I missed my train to Florence (I landed in Venice - long story) and barely made it to the next one playing with the pigeons at San Marco.

I had to do 1 of those things you think you only see in movies - chasing after the train and climbing onboard with the help of the conductor as the train starts pulling away.

But I finally finally made it to the Sta Maria Novella Station... and I'm in loooove. Florence in more beautiful than I remembered. I want to kill myself for being here alone - I feel like calling someone every 5 minutes to share.

Unlike Paris which is a dichotomy of the old and new, Florence seems to be completely trapped in time, retaining much of the old-world charm from when it was THE seat of power. It's amazing - none of the buildings are allowed to be taller than the Duomo so it really feels like another age, another time - no skycrapers, no modern edifices, just a helluva lot of tourists.

It's a really small city to you can walk everywhere - from the train station to Palazzo Pitti which, even at opposite ends is only about 15 minutes apart.

I am staying at what may be the most expensive lodging this trip at Pensione Bretagna (40euro), opposite the Arno river. I have a room all to myself with TV, phone and desk (I've been away from civilization for a while so these are really big big pleasures).

I am now on the opposite side of the Ponte Vecchio, having a huge slab of Florentine steak (their specialty - yum yum yum), a quarter of red wine (which is starting to hit me) and asparagus the size of my feet.

I have a feeling I'll sleep like the dead tonight (I was up at 6!) which is good since the weather is perfect (cool enough to walk around in a tee without freezing to death) for a trip to the Tuscan countryside tomorrow.

Ok bye... I hear gelato calling me.

Thursday, April 28, 2005

Paris Day 3

I am usually rushing my blog entries (ticking meter in Euro!!) so I haven't gone into as much detail as I would have liked. I finally got smarter today and am writing the 1st half of this entry at the gardens of Musee Rodin, opposite his famous sculture "The Thinker," while I munch on my tartine - which is really just a fancy French word for buttered croissant.

Ok... where do I begin? I am living in 1 of the many youth hostels in Paris (sorry for bursting your Carrie bubble Jac. Nothing remotely as glamorous as that :) called BVJ in the Latin Quarter. It's nice because all the people living here are about my age or even younger; I am walking distance from Notre Dame, St Michel and Blvd St Germain (for great nightlife and shopping) and when I'm not too lazy, I can even walk to the Louvre. For 28euros a night, I even get breakfast!!

What's not so nice is sleeping on an army bed that creaks everytime I turn or that I don't even get towels. Plus I'm on the 6th floor WITHOUT an elevator. And I have to share the room and the bathroom with 2 other girls (thank God there's only 2 though there are 8 beds).

I guess I wanted to get the ultimate backpacker adventure. Either that or I'm just cheap. I don't think I can do this again though... the bed and the sharing I can take -- the open bathroom I cannot. And by open I mean you shower with nothing to cover you - not even a shower curtain!! Too much sharing I think as I've seen Megan's ass 2 nights in a row now.

I spend my day going from 1 museum to the next, and as may be obvious from my previous entry, jumping on buses whose destination I have no clue. Generally though believe it or not, I walk to most of these places, which also means I get lost about 5x a day on the average.

Sometimes, I just sit for an hour and watch Paris move by from a cafe or brasserie or my favorite, sitting on the steps at Quay de Montebello beside the Seine. The cafès in Paris all seem designed for people-watching with the seats facing the street.

Most museums close at about 6pm so that's when I scavenge for food. I like St Severin or Rue de la Huchette off Blvd St Germain because it's so lively and as it happens, I get free beer / cocktails everytime. Paris is wonderfully kind to a girl.

Today I feel spent. My entire being is completely exhausted. My body and particularly my calves and some other muscles I didn't even know I had, are feeling the effects of walking up and down 6 flights of stairs... and all over Paris.

I WALKED from my dorm to Musee d'Cluny to Musee Rodin and Hotel des Invalides to the Louvre (and of course the Louvre is huuuuge) and then to Pompidou (where I am now taking advantage of the free Internet). My pedometer would have died and gone to heaven, disbelieving a human being could conceivably walk that far.

My brain and my soul are suffering from sensory and poetic overload -- too many paintings, sculptures, reliefs, friezes, artifacts, names and dates. But I enjoyed today even though I should have paced myself - particularly eliminating Pompidou from my itinerary (more later).

Surprisingly, I quite enjoyed Musee Rodin. I didn't really expect to since I'm more of a painting kinda girl, but Rodin's works up close are really powerful. Of course, "The Thinker" was the highlight, though his other works like "Ugolino and his children," "The Kiss," "The Walking Man" and "The 3 Shades" are amaaaaazing.

And the Louvre!! I thought I would stay till the Museum closed at 945pm but even without Ahia dragging me running through the halls, I finished walking almost the entire thing in about 4-5 hours. I even got to see some new things we missed the last time -- the Dutch / Spanish paintings, Egyptian antiquities, Napoleon III's apartment (over-the-top!), de la Tour's paintings and some Mesopotamian artifacts like the Code of Hammurabi. Of course I stayed the longest in the Italian / Dutch painting section with my dates, da Vinci, Caravaggio, Veronese, Titian, Rembrandt and Vermeer.

Pompidou I didn't like. This museum just affirmed my complete lack of understanding and appreciation of modern art and architecture. I hated the building and the contents (save for a few Matisse) and I would only go back for the incredible view of Paris from the 6th floor.

One last thing about Paris. The people I've met here are definitely characters - some I'd rather forget but still. There's...
- Megan, my room mate who came over from Boston to teach English. She also ran the Paris marathon which explains why she doesn't mind flashing me every night.
- Ivan, the half-Swedish guy who tried to kiss me after giving me directions to the Conciergerie (I swear I'm not kidding... it was surreal!).
- Tony, who kept following me around and finally shouted his marriage proposal, which everyone thought was real (ugh).
- Jacques, my Senegalese friend who gave me a bracelet for good luck.
- Mr. X who ran with me in the rain for more than 5 blocks to show me the Metro.
- the waiters / owners of Mythos and Le Harpe who kept giving me free cocktails every night.

I leave for Florence tomorrow and henceforth resolve to:
- not kill myself to make sulit the Museum pass (5 museums in 1 day is too much),
- eat something other than bread / baguettes for meals,
- not see Megan's ass anymore tonight.

Wednesday, April 27, 2005

Paris Day 2

Last night I was accosted by the owner of a Greek restaurant who carried (!!!) me into his restaurant to dance. Good thing he gave me free cocktails to make up for the complete and utter embarrassment. Thank God I don't know anyone in Paris...

I should have known that would be an omen for today. Morning started out fine at Musee d'Orsay, Tuileries Garden and Palais Royale - except for the strange marriage proposal I got (which is another story). Little did I know that I would be writing this blog drenched and soaked to the bone. It started raining as I left Sacre Coeur so I jumped on the first bus I saw. Big mistake... I got off as soon as the rain stopped and was even more lost and worse, completely stranded.

But it gave me time to think of a couple of things I noticed about Paris:
- There are sooooo many bookstores, and they're not even part of a chain! It's beside the point that the books are all in French (no big surprise)... There are more bookstores than there are internet cafès which is really wonderful. And the fact that it saved me from the rain today is another plus point.
- It's freaking cold but I seem to be the only one freezing my ass off. I see people jogging and rollerblading in shorts (!) and sleeveless shirts. I wonder if Parisians have thicker skin...
- Everyone smokes!! Even the little old lady who looks like she's about to keel over. And they do it everywhere, in restaurants, the Metro, waiting in line...
- Everyone drinks!! It was actually quite embarrassing not to order wine, and worse, almost not be able to finish it. :)
- There are 14, (14!!!) train lines... Just learning how to navigate Paris' trains have made me an expert navigator and I feel quite confident that should the time come, I could win the Amazing Race.

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Paris Day 1

Just landed in Paris this morning... I got on the wrong train to my rinky-dink "hostel" (really a dormitory) and it looked like it was going to rain. Then having no itinerary, I set about going to Musee d'Orsay which I didn't get a chance to see the last time I was here ages ago. Turns out it's closed on Mondays.

I was beginning to think Paris didn't like me. But it didn't rain, and I got to see Notre-Dame, Saint-Chapelle, Conciergerie, the Pantheon and the Eiffel Tower without incident. Plus I got to ride on one of those tour buses for free so I've seen all the sights from outside (heehee). :)

Paris is so lovely anyway - really made for walking and holding hands. Which makes me feel like murdering all the couples I see walking by. But I'm enjoying myself... it's different being alone, not altogether bad, just different. Like this stupid keyboard I'm using now.

I'm writing this blog in a little cafe near the Sorbonne and I have to say it's taking me forever!! The French even have to have their own keyboard. It took me 5 minutes to find the exclamation mark and they have about a million different keys for the apostrophe. Groan.

The downside to traveling alone?? I won't have any pictures. But the memories for sure are going to be fantastic!! Even just strolling down Champs Elysee was a blast. Can't wait for tomorrow... Wish you guys were here.

Sunday, April 24, 2005

Off I go!

I can't believe I'm already leaving for Paris tonight for 2 weeks of people-watching, museum-hopping and all around life-discovery... and that I'm doing it alone. After a whole bunch of mishaps, soul-searching, re-scheduled meetings and Melissa's visa getting denied, it's almost completely unbelievable that I'm finally on my way (and that Dean is letting me go - thanks Poot).

There's a sense of adventure this trip obviously, maybe the only trip I'll ever make traveling this way -- alone, staying in hostels, nothing but my backpack and a good book and no itinerary. I figure I'll wing it after I land - go where the mood strikes me (I have 16 countries to choose from). Feels petrifying for someone so OC (I nee-eeed to know train schedules) but well, you only live once so what the hell.

I'm really really excited... But yes Mom, I promise I won't stay out late at night. :) See you when I get back!

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Points to ponder

It's my parents' 35th wedding anniversary today. Wow. Didn't think it was possible to stay together that long - then again, I never thought I'd last a year with Dean. And here we are, going down 5 years...

I like my TV or computer wires and cables neatly tied up and unseen. I wonder if it will just explode 1 day because the electricity has to travel across coils squeezed in the middle vs. over a straight line. If anyone says yes, please let me know now before my apartment suddenly bursts into flames.

Why do Indians move their head from side to side when saying yes, instead of up and down like everyone else on the planet? Seriously, National Geographic should do a special on this.

Why do girls swoon over flowers given on anniversaries, Valentine's and birthdays? Isn't it just the most predictable thing? And why give something that will wither up and die in a few days?

Where do romance novelists get their adjectives and euphemisms? Is there a dictionary for ways to call our privates? "The gates of heaven", "the shining sword of lust", "his throbbing manhood", ick ick ick.

Where do all the ponytails go? No matter how careful I am, I am bound to lose them. Can't find them in my pockets, bags, under the bed, sofa, at home, in the office... Is there a homing device that calls them "home" after a period of time? Do they die and go to heaven? These dang things just can't be found... I could write a whole blog about this phenomena.

Sunday, April 17, 2005

Pleasures by Moan

How many times have I heard that what makes life worth living are the simple pleasures. I don't disagree. I think that unexpectedly discovering a really really good book, movie or restaurant, waking up at noon on weekends, coming home to hot dinner on the table, lounging around in bed in my PJs the whole day and great conversation that sparks a 'moment' with someone rank among the top experiences ever.

I could go on and on... But it's not just the simple pleasures in life. Lately, I've discovered expensive ones as well which, while probably not as meaningful, are still oh-soooo-good -- retail therapy, junkets, massages, champagne brunches and my new cellphone among them.

And who can forget my personal favorite, the guilty pleasure? Those pleasures you can't believe you enjoy, and deny deny deny to death you enjoy them to anyone who might have a clue. Or those pleasures that feel soooo good right before and during, but make you guilt-ridden right after (like porn for some people I know...).

I can't believe I'm sharing... but even at my age, there's still the sex-full completely implausible damsel-in-distress-knight-in-shining-armor type romance novel reserved for those weekends when I want to kill off a few brain cells. I also used to be a fan of the bubblegum pop music of Britney Spears, Backstreet Boys and the Spice Girls (cringe). And some Sundays (ok, most Sundays), I prefer to stay in and completely absorb my trashy celebrity-watching and bashing gossip magazines over human contact.

Don't get me started on chocolates. I fell in love at first taste and could finish a whole box of Ferrero or Guylian in 1 sitting if I'm left on my own. I think I would if it weren't for the caloric content and potential pimple outbreak. Just goes to show that some of the best things in life are better when they're forbidden, or when having too much has built-in consequences. God's own alarm system.

And yet, the risk is its own reward... I feel a chocolate craving coming on.

Friday, April 15, 2005

Champagne wishes and Strawberry Dreams

For Dean's birthday, we decided to celebrate at the ultra-expensive chi-chi Greenhouse brunch buffet at the Ritz Carlton, with free-flowing champagne. There's Wong and Dean pretending to be rich snobs. We would never pass... we couldn't even finish more than 2 glasses of champagne (among the 5 of us!!). Super lugi. :)

Of course we had to take so many pictures in the middle of their swanky restaurant like Japanese tourists. We must have been there for 3 hours at least! It's hard not to stuff yourself silly with lobster, sushi, salmon, foie gras, roast duck, roast beef, 5 kinds of oysters and more shark's fin in soup than I've ever had in my entire life. My discovery of the day - giant strawberries go well with champagne.

Saturday, April 09, 2005

Animal Fever

Ok, I know I haven't been writing in my blog, but I'm going to cheat anyway and pre-date my entries. :)

Mama, Yotch and Wong surprised me by coming over to Singapore last Friday, and just telling me the day before! I was too excited to care that my apartment was super messy and there was no way we would all fit in 1 bed. Everything worked out though, even if Wong had to sleep by herself in the study with just an inch of air passing through.

It's really bad I know... but I've never been to the Singapore Zoo in the 2.5 years I've been here. But I would have gone earlier if I had known how much fun it was!! Man, the kid in me was just raring to go see all those animals! We walked at least 21000 steps that day (courtesy of my pedometer) and I think most of those led to the African part of the zoo, where we found almost every animal in the Lion King.

Of course there were the lions way way way behind Mama, Yotch and Wong (top left). Did you know that lions only mate 1x a year but they do it for 2 weeks, every 15 minutes!! Well apparently, we were right smack in the middle of their 2 week sex-fest (top 2nd) and whoa Nelly, did Yotch want to go back every 15 minutes...

Don't ask me why I have a picture of Rafiki's red ass. And Disney sure made Pumbaa much cuter than he is in real life (bottom left: he's that thing that looks like a log). Surprisingly, Timon was pretty cute and this little critter we saw was even putting the moves on his honey. It was so sweet I couldn't resist taking that many shots. I don't think he liked my intrusion into his privacy though.

Being the official photographer, I made Yotch take all these close-up shots with the animals. She's afraid of the emu and the little iguana, but couldn't get close enough to the orang-utan (ouch... $12...). And I don't have a picture, but she ran out screaming from the bat cave. It was the highlight of the Night Safari. :)

But by far, my most most most favorite of the zoo was the polar bear. He is absolutely amazing. I think the kid in the shot captures all the wonder I felt that day. I had no idea watching lions having sex, chasing after little ponies and smelling rhino poo would make for a good day... But I guess you learn something new every day. :)

The Yellow Brick Road